What are the most common boiler faults?
Common domestic boiler faults include low system pressure, no ignition or a lockout, the boiler not firing for heating or hot water, and, in winter, a frozen condensate pipe. Modern boilers show a fault code on the display, which should be read against that manufacturer's manual, as the same code can mean different things.
Reviewed by Jordan Valentine-Dunn, Gas Safe registered engineer · Portsmouth Gas Heating · Last reviewed July 2026
Modern boilers are reliable, but a handful of faults come up again and again. Knowing the usual suspects helps you describe a problem accurately when you ring an engineer, and helps you judge what is a nuisance and what is a warning. The fix for anything involving gas is a job for a Gas Safe registered engineer; the diagnosis often starts with what you noticed.
What are the most common boiler faults?
- Low system pressure, shown on the pressure gauge and often the reason a boiler refuses to start.
- No ignition or a lockout, which can involve the gas supply, ignition or flame sensing.
- Heating but no hot water, or the reverse, which on a combi often points to the diverter valve, and elsewhere to the pump, motorised valve or thermostat.
- A frozen condensate pipe, the classic cold-snap fault on condensing boilers.
- Cold spots on radiators and sluggish heating, which suggest sludge in the system rather than a fault in the boiler itself.
- Kettling, a rumbling or banging from the boiler, often linked to scale or circulation problems.
Why does a boiler lose pressure?
Sealed heating systems run at a set pressure, and when it drops the boiler shuts down to protect itself. The benign cause is recent bleeding of radiators, which removes air and pressure together. The ones that need attention are a weep from a radiator valve or pipe joint, an expansion vessel that has lost its charge, or a pressure relief valve passing water. Topping up restores the number, but a system that needs topping up repeatedly is losing water somewhere, and finding where is diagnostic work for an engineer, not a habit to normalise. Water has a way of going somewhere you will eventually mind about.
What does a lockout or ignition fault mean?
A lockout is the boiler deciding conditions are not safe or stable enough to run, and stopping until the fault is looked at. Behind it can sit a gas supply issue, a failed ignition attempt, flame sensing trouble, a blocked condensate route or a fan or sensor fault. One reset after, say, a power cut is reasonable; repeated resetting to force a boiler through lockouts is not, because the boiler is refusing for a reason. A safety lockout should never be bypassed, and a boiler that locks out repeatedly needs a Gas Safe registered engineer to find out why.
Why is there heating but no hot water, or the other way round?
Because most boilers serve two circuits through shared parts, and the component that switches between them can fail in one direction. On a combi, the diverter valve does that switching, and a worn one commonly gives you heating but lukewarm taps. On a system with a cylinder, a motorised valve, the pump or a thermostat can produce the same lopsided result. These are mechanical diagnoses on the gas appliance and its controls, so they sit with the engineer, but describing exactly which half works, and since when, shortens the visit.
What goes wrong in winter specifically?
Condensing boilers drain slightly acidic condensate through a plastic pipe, and where that pipe runs outside it can freeze in a cold snap, blocking the drain and shutting the boiler down, often with a gurgling noise and a specific fault code. It is the single most predictable breakdown of a British January. The lasting fix is proper insulation or rerouting of the exposed pipe run, which is a sensible thing to ask for at a service rather than during the cold snap itself, when every engineer's phone is ringing with the same fault.
When is a boiler fault a safety issue?
Treat these as different in kind from a breakdown: a smell of gas; a yellow or lazy flame where it should burn crisp and blue; soot or staining around the appliance; a pilot that keeps going out; excessive condensation in the room; or a carbon monoxide alarm sounding. These can point to incomplete combustion or escaping gas, and the response is not a reset button. If you smell gas or an alarm sounds, get fresh air in, get people out, and call the National Gas Emergency line on 0800 111 999, then have the appliance checked by a Gas Safe registered engineer before it is used again.
What should you know about fault codes?
Most modern boilers show a fault or error code on the display, and it is genuinely useful information, but only against the right decoder: the same code can mean different things on different boilers, so always read it against that manufacturer's own manual. For engineers, the code is the start of the trail, not the verdict, and the appliance's history is the context that makes sense of it. Engineers using Manifold keep each appliance's past readings, photos and previous faults attached to the job record, so a recurring code shows up as a pattern rather than a fresh mystery every visit.
Many boiler faults, and all gas work, must be dealt with by a Gas Safe registered engineer, and a safety lockout should never be bypassed. This guide is general information to help you describe and understand faults, not instructions for working on an appliance.
Frequently asked
Last reviewed July 2026. This guide is general information, not legal or safety advice, gas safety work must be carried out by an appropriately Gas Safe registered engineer. Rules can change, so check the linked official sources for the current position.